Joelle came home last night with a little bouquet of the traditional gift for 1 May and everyone will be selling them all over the place today. (I believe they are called lily of the valley in English.) Here's a link with more details on the holiday and while you are there, check out the link for the Melt-in-Your-Mouth Chocolate Cake. Hands down, the easiest, tastiest chocolate cake you will ever make. Of course, lots of other great stuff about food and France over there.
This gelato is from a charming little shop in the town of Menton, France which is sort of like Florida for the French. It's the last town before the border with Italy and used to be part of Italy a hundred plus years ago so there are always quite a few Italians in town. Lots of tasty Franco-Italian food in the area and of course, gelato.
How original. Oh no, France failed to protect the sacred flame of Nike, IBM, GE and Coke. Damn you French! Damn you! Oh the humanity!
Chinese internet blogs and chat-rooms are full of calls for a boycott of French goods and contracts since the raucous protests which forced the Olympic torch off the streets of Paris last Monday.
French businessmen in China say that they are worried by apparently spontaneous signs of anti-French feeling but say that there is no sign, so far, of any official willingness to "punish" Paris.
How about another series of violent street riots just like the government tolerated (if not more) against the Japanese a few years ago. Please riot against the rest of the world so everyone can re-think and re-locate manufacturing to another location. Heaven forbid. How will the west ever survive?
UPDATE: And for what it's worth, here's the Italian take from the class I taught at the university in Urbino, Italy - a beautiful medieval city, top of a mountain, walled in, just amazing. The student newspaper reported on my talk. (It's in Italian, but I know some of you speak it.)
My trip to Europe over the past month was a working trip. In addition to doing a panel discussion and a workshop about online advocacy and blogs at the annual conference of the lead (liberal) opposition party in Greece, I also did a number of presentations/discussions for reporters and college students in Italy about the same topic. Both Greece and Italy are behind in using the Internet for politics (though Greece, at least, has a pretty good nascent corps of online advocates on the left - I can't speak for Italy as I didn't meet any). I'd say each country is easily 8 to 10 years behind us in terms of their use of blogs, but also years behind in the use of the Net at large for politics (though, oddly, Italy claims one of the top bloggers in the world, Beppe Grillo). I also did a number of interviews with the press in each country, in order to push the idea that blogging, and the Internet overall, could be a force for positive change. In Greece, there's a lot of suspicion about blogging, and in Italy I got the sense that many people think it's simply irrelevant. This interview below, with "Marianne" magazine, one of the largest weekly magazines in France (I'm told), was part of that marketing effort (you can check the magazine out here). The interview is in French, and I was nervous as hell (in addition to sick with the flu and freezing), so I figured this was worth a laugh on a Friday. Enjoy.
What kind of uncivilized country is this? I got a hoot out of the sign on the way into a popular Parisian bakery near the Rue Daguerre (I think it's called Moisan), that made clear that not only weren't dogs permitted in the bakery, but cats weren't either! As you may know, pets are king in France. They go into restaurants, the metro, grocery stores, department stores, you name it. I remember my mom visiting me during my junior year abroad in Paris. We were at a pretty nice restaurant, and all of a sudden a woman sits down next to her and there's a dog knocking around at mom's feet. Mom was not amused. :-)
Below is a lady, yesterday, walking Fido into the grocery/department store - she's standing at the cafe counter, next to the bakery. I think my sister Kathy needs to bring Carmela to France when she finally visits Paris.
I've had this killer flu for three and a half weeks now, and it's still lingering as a persistent cough, so I figured I'd go see the doctor in Chris' building. She said, yep, you've got the flu that everyone else has, and you might have a chest infection. Her prescription? Get an X-Ray. Ugh. An X-Ray. Does my insurance cover it? If so, how much? So, I paid the whopping 22 Euro (33 bucks) bill to the doctor, in cash (she paid me my change out of her purse), and called Blue Cross to see if they cover me while I'm abroad. After a good 20 minute phone call, I found out that if my French X-Ray center isn't "in network" then I have to pay a $300 deductible and 70% of the cost. At this point, I figured I'd better find out how much this X-Ray is going to cost, since for $300, I'd rather just have the doc dope me up on antibiotics and screw the X-Ray. The doc warned me that X-Rays are much more expensive than doctor visits. So I just called the X-Ray people and asked how much a chest X-Ray costs. Are you ready? 45 Euros. That's 67 bucks or so (and it would be only 45 bucks if the exchange rate weren't so out of whack). I just looked online and found that chest X-Rays go for around 200 dollars in the states. Amazing. So I'm going to suck it up and pay my 67 dollars for the X-Ray out of my own pocket. Tell me again how European "socialized medicine" is so bad?
Okay, just got back from the doctor (the x-ray was fine). I scheduled my appointment a few hours in advance, it was for 3:30pm (or 15h30 as they say here), and they took me at 3:33pm. I was out of there in 15 minutes, and that included seeing a doctor afterwards to explain what the x-ray said (and I then promptly left my x-ray in the check out line at the grocery - someone's in for a surprise with their creme brule!) Bottom line: Still not seeing what's so bad with the health care system over here.
Admittedly, I'm not a religious person though I am always intrigued by religion and how cultures recognize religious events and locations. A few years ago while visiting a friend in a small village in the south of France, the village had their annual procession for the Stations of the Cross to start the Easter weekend. The villagers have been doing this for decades, dressing in costumes and leading the entire village to each station. It really was quite a site to see.
Last summer I had the opportunity to visit Israel including Jerusalem and spent time visiting the original Via Dolorosa and the Stations of the Cross right in to the Holy Sepulchre. Regardless of what you believe walking the streets of Jerusalem (in all districts) is one of the most amazing places on earth. It's heavy - very heavy - but every stone has history that scans history right up until today. Even entering the city through the (now closed, I believe) crossing point from Jordon through the DMZ and the West Bank was amazing. Anyway, the night photos are from Roquebrune village (officially Roquebrune-Cap Martin) and the rest, from Jerusalem. More photos after the jump.
Lighting the candles for one of the Stations of the Cross.
One of the Stations of the Cross during the procession.
The procession in the village on Good Friday.
A Jerusalem street sign for the famous street.
Above, Station VI on the Via Dolorosa where Veronica met Jesus and wiped his face as he carried the cross.
In the Holy Sepulchre where Jesus was cleansed after death. Crowds of people would gather to touch the stone, often crying and placing objects on it. The occasional outbursts of crying with hair pulling and laying parts of their body on the slab could be somewhat odd to an outsider like myself. Interesting to observe though.
Taking a break from politics. Had a number of interviews with the local papers in Athens, to talk about blogs in the US (I think), and attended my cousin's international relations class at the university, which was interesting. It's amazing how Athens has changed over the years. There are so many cool neighborhoods. Trendier than anything I've seen in DC, and on a par with NYC, if not far cooler. Just amazing. Having said that, only 15% of the population has Internet access (10% have broadband), per a study from last year (so it may be a bit higher now). So they still have a ways to go. Anyway, a few cool pics of Athens I thought I'd share:
Actually, this post is a few days old. I got into Paris last night and am working from Chris and Joelle's apartment. I had to snap a shot of the cheese shop next door. They were giving a cheese lesson, which was cute enough, but to top it off, the instructor was wearing a beret. :-)
Globally (outside of the US) Obama won 65.6% compared to Hillary's 32.7%. In France Obama rolled with 71.8%. Read more here and see the full results (PDF) here. This makes 11 straight victories for Obama.
In Paris, there are roughly 70,000 Americans and of that group around 85% are Democrats. Roughly six million Americans live outside of the US. In the past many were not registered to vote because it's not an easy process, especially considering what happens to ballots sent from overseas. The 2004 election was possibly a turning point as many Americans living overseas became involved thanks to the poor policies by the Bush administration. Without the same biased media coverage, Americans abroad had a very different view of what was going on both in America and to our reputation abroad. When Bush had a 90% approval rating, most American expats were in the 10% category and wondering why the rest were fawning over his actions. More expat voting, after the jump.
I hope the Democrats Abroad continue the process of bringing democracy to Americans overseas. Everyone was talking about it and expats actually felt like we were part of the process. Now if only they could move beyond being a 'boomers and beyond' clique that aren't very welcoming to newcomers. Sheesh, just like old time French politics where leadership never changes.
Obama supporters everywhere but no sign of Hillary people. I don't know how that happened but it was during peak voting hours in the evening. And a link to Democrats Abroad voting in Madrid and the party afterwards.
In France, it is customary for many to celebrate the Epiphany (Jan. 6) with the galette des rois, or king cake. I once met someone from Louisiana who celebrated the day with a special cake flown in from New Orleans which was different from what we eat in Paris/northern France though similar to what is eaten in the South. The southern version is more like brioche or fluffy cake. (France is a country that is divided between butter in the north and olive oil in the south.) This galette is made with plenty of butter and filled with frangipane, which is one of my favorites.
The person who receives the slice of galette which includes the "feve" or bean, is pronounced king or queen for the day. Typically friends will gather and share a glass of (hard) cider or Champagne together with the cake. Below are a few more photos including the king and the honor guard for the king... Sushi.
As much as I may disagree with certain policies and comments by Nicolas Sarkozy, he has always impressed me with his drive to modernize France and make it an all inclusive society. When he presented his new cabinet, it was a radical change from the past. Now, he's is refusing the initial annual honors list and demanding new faces from all backgrounds. This kind of change is long overdue. More on his campaign of diversity, after the jump.
Ministers are hurriedly working on new lists for the Légion d'Honneur, awarded to "eminent" French and foreign citizens, and the Ordre Nationale du Mérite, awarded for "distinguished" achievement. Announcements are expected in the next few days.
In the case of the country's second ranking honour, the Ordré du Merite, the new list, already almost two months overdue, is expected to include equal numbers of men and women for the first time. The list of recipients of the Légion d'Honneur, which was due on 1 January, may not be equally balanced but will contain more women than ever before. In future, President Sarkozy has made it clear, he wants to see parity between the sexes in the award of honours.
According to the newspaper Le Monde, President Sarkozy was also unhappy that the proposed lists contained too many civil servants and politicians and, implicitly, too many white people. He has asked for candidates who reflect "French diversity" and more people from businesses and charitable associations.
Overall, of 1,340 new nominations to the order, less than a third were women.
This comes as no surprise. After the 2005 riots there was the usual talk though nothing really changed. On the left, there has been a stubbornness to take any useful action because in the eyes of many (especially the traditional, white elite men who never share power) the French constitution provides equality so to even suggest otherwise or treat any disadvantaged group differently, would go against the constitution. On the right there have been numerous inflammatory public comments that have offered nothing to help bridge the gap.
With such positions it's hard to make any progress on this ongoing problem. Sarkozy used to talk about affirmative action plans and perhaps that will receive renewed interest. In France, affirmative action is considered to be an idea of the right, not the left. It's interesting to see how there is such a different interpretation on this issue. Somehow I doubt the pro-Sarko crowd in America would be in agreement with him. Regardless, something needs to change if France is ever going to start moving on with this problem. It's not going to disappear by throwing police at the problem.
It's about time. The strike has only delayed the inevitable fairness in retirement programs that voters - not street marchers - have concluded they want. Over the past few decades opinions have changed. People who rely on public transport to get to and from work have been punished during this strike, forced to walk or pay expensive taxi fees if they want to hold their own jobs. Some people who are on the outside looking in seem to think that France is some sort of a workers paradise, with guaranteed job security. It's different but not necessarily better or even good, for that matter.
Despite generally hating rules and regulations, when it comes to the work environment, they rule the day. In recent years organizations have increasingly used short term contracts to employ workers which means these people have employment, but it's similar to what we have in the US. Few benefits and no guarantees. People take these jobs because unemployment for youth is well into double digits. Even among the general population the rate is over 8%.
People in the workforce certainly have more security than in the US though this also cuts both ways. Organizations take months to hire someone new because they know it's expensive to get rid of that person if it's the wrong person. For job seekers, this translates to six months or more to find new work. There are no shortages of qualified people who can be looking for work for a year, even two or more. Compare that to the US where perhaps you can be fired easily enough, but it is dramatically easier to find new employment compared to France.
So as the strike dies down and transport workers go back it appears as though France is moving in the direction of modernizing its employment environment. Will this mean France will become like the US with employment laws? There is only so much change the French will accept so nothing will change overnight. Like many issues, finding a middle ground that works will be important. France isn't the only country that has trouble finding a middle ground though after years of watching neighboring Britain move forward while France is stuck in neutral, I suspect France is ready enough to try.
In theory many union workers have drifted back to work though according to the Metro website, disruptions continue. (Different Metro lines in Paris have different unions, with some more radical than others.) In the mean time streets are full of bad drivers from the suburbs and velib bikes continue to be in demand by commuters. Support for Sarkozy continues to remain high and a strong majority support him in addressing this issue.
The issue here is fairness. Most people in France no longer support easier retirement plans that were based on work conditions that made sense years ago (when coal was used, for example) but are out of step with the times. The system in France needs reform and the left failed miserably to offer their own ideas which is why they lost so badly in the recent elections. Even today the left is disorganized and lacks support. The elections in May weren't a 51/49 split as we've seen in the US presidential elections but an old fashioned blowout. As much as the French hate change, they demanded change at the polls and they still support that position.
Moving forward, this may not be the "Thatcher moment" that the media wants but the system in France will change. It has to change. France is currently listed as the worst market in the world for business-labor relations and that doesn't help anyone in any way. France needs to solve this problem if it wants to get the economy rolling again because decades of 8%-10+% unemployment just won't cut it any longer.
Putting aside the stupidity of the "Freedom fries" and anti-French hysteria from the pre-war days (hey, they were right!) I find this article hard to believe. I believe La Fayette (also known sometimes as Lafayette, one word) is the most often used name for towns, cities and counties in America after Washington. The man was a true hero and provided leadership and connections to France, both of which were critical to the success of the America War of Independence. Without the deep pockets of France and the military assistance from the likes of La Fayette and Admiral de Grasse (see victory at Yorktown) who knows if the US would have won.
In the US there's an often discussed idea that if people are upset with the government, they will turn and somehow manage to succeed. The facts are quite different. A burning desire for change and improvement are but a few of the necessary factors. Look at Iraq, for example. Plenty of foreign assistance, but a lack of leadership and desire for a better system has everyone stuck in an ugly cycle of violence for the sake of violence.
Back to La Fayette and his proper place in America. If this is in fact true, that Americans don't know who he was or what he did, this explains our pre-war arrogance and ignorance. This also raises the issue of why Americans are so often disliked around the world. Here today, gone tomorrow and what have you done for me lately? Like it or not, America has a shoddy reputation for forgetting about our friends, with La Fayette being but one example. This attitude certainly does nothing to help us realize that yes, we have relied on friends around the world, even in the toughest times. By forgetting about people such as La Fayette, it only feeds into the arrogance that the US alone is the best and the greatest. Indeed, it's not just the French who have a reputation around the world for being arrogant. This perhaps also explains the friction between our two great nations over time.
Remembering our friends and being respectful of our traditional allies doesn't make America any weaker or less important. As we move forward with a re-emerging Russia and the fast-moving China it's going to be even more important that we go back and work on our global relationships. We tried "going it alone" and look at where it got us. Whoever our next president will be, they are going to need to build bridges and lots of them. Let's not forget about the La Fayettes of the world.
I know, I know. It's not quite the thing anymore thanks to too many years of pathetic plonk but it's my family duty. My in laws are from the Beaujolais and I was married in the region so this is the year I shall rally 'round the nouveau. I've heard good things about it but won't have a chance to pop open a bottle until tomorrow evening. It's actually an ideal wine to go with the Thanksgiving turkey and as long as I can find something decent for less than 4 euro/bottle, it's the house wine until December when it goes and turns into vinegar or whatever that is.
In the mean time, have fun, keep your red Beaujolais chilled and start dreaming of those yummy turkey and stuffing sandwiches that are only days away. If anyone has a chance to try the new stuff, post your comments.
Sarkozy "The American" ran on a campaign to change France. The deficit in France is about the same as in the US even without an expensive war. The initial small strikes were only the first play in a long match with each sides seeing how the other would react. Now it's the real thing, with trains and metros shut down and power shortages coming via other unions. Students are in the queue and I'm sure there are a few other groups waiting in the wings.
The issue is whether to bring the rail worker unions into the norm with the rest of the population. Currently many can retire at 50 or 55 whereas those outside of the union are typically thrown on the street at that age with little hope of ever finding employment to finish their working life. One key argument that the government workers make is that their jobs are boring and they accept lower pay and better retirement plans. Hmm, how about everyone else that makes somewhat more money (though not drastically more) but has less and less job security?
Sarkozy still enjoys high general approval numbers though people are starting to doubt his capabilities to implement the change he spoke about in the campaign. The next few weeks will either break him, much as it did to Chirac when faced with strikes, or make him much more powerful. It's hard to say if either outcome is good for the country, but we shall know more soon.
